San Camp in Botswana has 7 billowing beige tents in the stark concession of white, flat desert of the Makgadikgadi Pans. Originally part of an ancient lake bed, the terrain is characteristically dotted with shallow depressions enclosing islands of stunted acacia trees. This is also the domain of the brown hyena, a shy and elusive creature - as well as suricates, aardvarks and small bustard species. Here, you only have to camp on the crest of some forgotten dune, watch the shadows lengthen as the sun sinks, listen to the cry of the jackal as the shroud of darkness settles, to know that you have touched the soul of Africa.